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In our last newsletter, we discussed why Greenwich Mean Time is an actual thing. Today, we look at five GMT watches that will keep you aligned to that old observatory just outside of London (or whatever time zone you wish to align yourself).
The two GMTs
GMTs come in two different styles:
The True GMT, also known as a Traveller's GMT, Flyer GMT, or sometimes a Jumping Hour GMT, allows you to set the local time independently of the GMT hand. It's handy if you travel a lot and want the GMT hand to point to the time at home. This is the Jet Set GMT.
The Office GMT is often called a Caller GMT, since it's designed for people phoning colleagues abroad rather than flying to meet them. You set the GMT hand independently of the main movement. Some brands also call it a Desk GMT or Home GMT. This is the Desk Jockey GMT.
Fink Watches Hurricane GMT - $453 (USD) £399 (GBP)

Image: Fink Watches
First, you get into watches, and then you think, "Wow, I should start my own brand!" Then you realise that your lack of watch building knowledge perfectly complements your lack of manual dexterity. Fortunately, Watch Supply Limited has you covered. First, it provides complete, easy-to-build watch kits to scratch that build-your-own itch.
But then, for those who know that's never going to work, their house brand, Fink Watches, offers complete watches. And the Fink Hurricane is one of our favourite GMTs. A bronze case, Italian leather strap, NH34 movement, textured dial, this under-the-radar watch punches way above its weight. And no assembly required.
39mm bronze case, Italian-leather strap, Seiko NH34 caller GMT movement and it comes fully assembled.
Vaer G2 Meridian Green - 39mm USA GMT - $399 (USD) £299 (GBP)

Image: Vaer Watches
Vaer gets a lot of love from watch aficionados. Great design, US-assembled, with founders that love the planet (1% of Vaer's revenue goes to environmental causes, $240,000 so far). Usually, though, Vaer watches, though reasonably priced, track above our $500 price point.
Not this one: a $399 Vaer is a fantastic deal. Don't be put off by the quartz movement: it's a Swiss-made Ronda, which shall not let you down. And you get the Vaer vibe: a classically styled, American assembled GMT that looks like a watch in a different price band. Given our commitment to $500, mucho gracias, Vaer.
39mm case, choice of a few straps, Swiss Ronda caller GMT movement, California built, environment-saving.
Minus-8 Diver GMT (preorder) - $478 (USD) £365 (GBP)

Image: Minus-8 Watches
We're still in California (which is GMT minus 8, we just saw it too) with a brand that kicks the Cali vibe. Why else would they say their watches are "designed to challenge the commoditisation of the analogue watch market?" So we're not sure what that means, but whatever, because Minus-8 makes truly unique watches, including the Diver GMT.
The case is made of PVD-coated titanium. For those who slept through chemistry, PVD stands for Physical Vapour Deposition, where a tough coating is added to the case and bracelet by vapouring it in a vacuum chamber. (And how does that work? We don't know, it's not like we paid attention either.) In the end, you get a great-looking watch that's titanium tough, without some of titanium downsides, as it is prone to scratches and tarnishing. If that constitutes a "challenge to the commoditisation of the analogue watch market", well, mission accomplished, my dude.
40mm PVD-coated titanium case and bracelet, 50mm lug-to-lug, NH34 caller GMT movement, now on preorder.
Redwood Standard Issue Commando GMT - $393 (USD) £275 (GBP)

Image: Redwood Watches
Question: How do you name your watch brand? Do you make up a word (Rolex), choose a place (Mont Blanc) or choose, like, everywhere (IWC)? Or like lots of brands, do you use the name of the brand's founder? Well, if the name is Redwood, and you've founded a watch brand focused on tough, outdoor watches from the Great White North, the brand story writes itself.
The Redwood brothers assemble all their watches from their Montreal-based workshop. The brand specialises in military-inspired watches that are easy on the eye and solidly built. The Standard Issue GMT fits the Redwood brief, offering classic looks while being tough enough to confidently tell the time in Quebec while you're stomping around Banff National Park.
Redwood offers a variety of straps, including the formerly known NATO straps (we will never let it go) in canvas and leather, as well as the UK military-standard metal bracelet known as 'bonklip.' (Like Rolex, bonklip appears to be a made-up word.)
38mm stainless steel case, 44mm lug-to-lug, NH34 caller GMT, choice of straps if bonklip ain't your jam.

Image: Amazon
Bulova Wilton GMT 96B385 - $519 (USD) £470 (GBP)
Our GMT journey, so far, has an outdoor-military vibe, and that makes sense: the first GMT was a pilot's watch, made for Pan Am by Rolex. But we need a watch for people like us, who by choice and frankly, necessity, take the escalator to our departure gate instead of the stairs.
Hello Bulova! A US-legacy brand now owned by Citizen Watches, the Wilton GMT is your business-class lounge option. Water-resistant to 30 metres, it can take a punch if that punch is you spilling a gin and tonic on your watch, but we wouldn’t recommend running wildly into the surf with a Wilton strapped to your wrist. But that’s ok, this is a style flex, not an outdoor one.
It's the only 'true GMT' among the five, making it ideal for travellers who regularly cross time zones. On touchdown, you move the hour hand to reflect your new local time, while the GMT hand still points home. Citizen quality, jet-set looks, traveller GMT: all we need is fast-lane security access, and we're set.
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Prices are approximate, converted to GBP or USD where needed, and may wander off thanks to exchange rates, local tariffs, or whatever mood your customs office happens to be in.
