We’re delighted to say that we survived Black Friday and Cyber Monday without adding yet another watch to the collection. How did y’all do? Let us know at [email protected]: your best deals, your immediate regrets and the one that got away.

For us, the one that got away was the Seiko Mojito. We find ourselves in a debate: the Mojito? Or the Negroni? We like the Mojito better, but we like the actual drink Negroni, like, a lot more. Swings and roundabouts.

Anywho, with Christmas bearing down on us all, we need to get you some watches for that special someone. So off we go!

What are they? A UK microbrand run by Craig and Sarah Golby. The brand was originally known for straps before Golby ventured into the rest of the watch. They are based in Solihull, though their inspiration comes from the Cornish coast. Their first watch, the Aquareef, arrived by crowdfunding; since then Golby has grown into one of the UK’s most respected micros.

What’s the vibe? Golby leans hard into the British coastline, and the watches, all divers, look up to whatever task you’ll face on whatever beach you find yourself. With multiple, coastal-inspired colours, you could wear one on the Amalfi Coast or out on Whitefish Bay, and it would look entirely at home, as if it had recommended the trip in the first place.

$500 gets you. Their current range falls between about $480 and $533 depending on exchange rates, which is close enough for our purposes. For that you get the excellent Miyota 9015 movement, proper 200 metre water resistance, sapphire crystal, and the sense that your money has been spent on the watch rather than on marketing. In short, a capable, colourful, well-engineered companion that punches well above its weight. With something like 390,000 miles of coastline in the world, a Golby will feel perfectly at home on all of them.

We are talking about Rolex, of course. Spend any time on a Rolex forum, and you will see the triumphant declaration, “I got the call!” as if it is almost a religious experience. It always strikes us as a little weird, because it is weird. Someone whose literal job is to sell watches is phoning you to say, “Yes, you have our permission to give us ten thousand dollars. Thank you for waiting two years or more for the privilege.”

That someone, of course, is the authorised dealer, or AD. Rolex sells its watches through a network of ADs, many of whom have been with them for generations. Goldsmiths, for instance, began selling Rolex in 1919 and has had a century to perfect its sympathetic head tilt when you ask about your missing Submariner. The AD is both a relationship builder and gatekeeper for the world’s most venerated watch brand. If you want the long explanation, the podcast “Acquired” has recorded five hours of it. At that length, it counts as weight training. But it is worth it.

Anyway, the AD stands between you, the bro who wants to rock a Rollie at your next party in the Hamptons or at Royal Ascot, and the foundation-owned Swiss giant that actually makes the things.

They do. But it is complicated. Being a Rolex AD is essential to a jeweller’s business model. For example, some also carry, say, Patek Philippe, but Patek makes only about sixty thousand watches a year. And you do not really own a Patek anyway, you watch it until the time comes when you give it to your unappreciative kid. Rolex, meanwhile, produces over a million watches annually, so that’s the partnership (and scale) that matters.

Hence, the AD must keep two audiences happy. First, you, the person desperate for a Daytona. Second, Rolex, which is desperate for two things: identifying more people who will happily wear Rolex, and avoiding the dudes who want to flip Rolex. An AD seeks to encourage the former and will do almost anything to avoid selling a watch to Mr Chrono24, who buys on Tuesday and lists it by Friday.

Yep. That Patek Philippe you will one day babysit for your ungrateful child, expect a long wait. Richard Mille as well, unless you are an F1 driver. F.P. Journe, even if you are an F1 driver. Also, anyone wanting a Nautilus from IWC or an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This is partly because some of these watches are genuinely hard to build, and, of course, are made in limited quantities. But the whole relationship thing matters to these brands as well.

So, depending on what you want to wear at Christmas (that is, Christmas 2028), you would be wise to start working the room now. For the brave, The Subdial has a handy guide.

Leica is the Rolex of the camera world. Both are built to exceptional standards, hold their value well, and have legions of fans who express almost cult-like devotion to the brands (and, unfortunately, can't stop talking about them.) With Leica, however, you can usually (but not always) buy a camera without doing the multi-year AD waitlist tango. And they also make watches.

The cameras are straight-up photographer grail pieces. The watches, albeit great, are a bit boujee, and also expensive. That said, the cameras, well, they aren't exactly point-and-shoot. Plus, the ZM11 only takes black-and-white photos, and it doesn't have the iconic Leica red dot.

Given that we know how a watch works out of the package.....ZM1 takes the ‘W’. For the tempted, more information at Leica.

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Prices are approximate, converted to GBP or USD where needed, and may wander off thanks to exchange rates, local tariffs, or whatever mood your customs office happens to be in.